Framing your finished needlework transforms hours of stitching into a lasting piece of home decor that can be enjoyed for generations. Taking the time to prepare and mount your fabric correctly ensures the piece remains flat, clean, and structurally sound inside the frame.
Preparing Your Cross Stitch for Framing
Before any frame or mat touches your project, the fabric must be clean and perfectly square. Skipping this step risks trapping oils, hoop marks, or creases that will become permanent over time. A thorough preparation phase also gives you a chance to inspect the back of your work for loose threads or knots that need securing.
Washing and Pressing Before Framing
Even if your hands were clean while stitching, natural oils and invisible dust accumulate on the fabric. Washing removes these contaminants and relaxes the fibers, making the piece easier to block into a perfect rectangle. Use cool water and a mild, phosphate-free detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Submerge the piece gently, allowing the water to penetrate the fibers without agitation. Rinse until the water runs completely clear, then roll the work in a clean white towel to remove excess moisture without wringing.
The Washing Process
Fill a clean basin with lukewarm water and add a small amount of gentle detergent. Place the cross stitch in the water and let it soak for fifteen to twenty minutes. Do not scrub or rub the surface, as this can distort stitches or cause color bleeding, especially with dark floss like DMC 310. Drain the soapy water and refill the basin with cool clean water. Rinse repeatedly until no suds remain. Support the wet fabric fully when lifting it to prevent the weight of the water from stretching the weave.
Pressing Your Cross Stitch
While the fabric is still damp, lay it face down on a thick, dry towel placed on an ironing board. Cover the back with a pressing cloth. Set your iron to the cotton or linen setting with steam turned off. Press the iron down firmly and lift it straight up; do not slide it across the surface. Sliding creates shear forces that distort the weave. Check the edges frequently to ensure they are drying square. If the piece has pulled out of shape, gently tug the damp fabric into alignment before pressing that area. For more detailed guidance on fabric care, see our cross stitch basics section.
Mounting Methods: Lacing vs Pinning vs Adhesive
How you attach the fabric to the backing board determines how long the piece stays taut and flat. The three primary techniques offer different balances of archival safety, difficulty, and reversibility. Choose the method that matches your skill level and the value of the finished piece.
Lacing Method (Recommended)
Lacing is the gold standard for conservation framing. It uses strong thread to stitch the fabric edges to the back of a foam core or acid-free mounting board, distributing tension evenly across the entire perimeter. Start by centering the pressed piece on the board. Fold the excess fabric over the back edges. Using a sturdy thread like cotton quilting thread or polyester lacing cord, stitch from one side to the opposite side in a zigzag pattern, pulling the fabric taut as you go. Work opposite sides first (top to bottom, then left to right) to maintain even tension. This method allows for future removal without damage and prevents the fabric from sagging over decades.
Pinning Method
Pinning uses stainless steel or nickel-plated pins pushed through the fabric edge into the sides of a foam board. It is faster than lacing but creates concentrated stress points. Over time, the weight of the fabric can cause the pins to tear the holes larger, leading to puckering. If you choose this method, use pins spaced no more than half an inch apart and ensure they are rust-proof. This approach is best suited for smaller pieces or temporary displays. Avoid standard sewing pins, which are too thin and prone to bending or corrosion.
Adhesive Method
Double-sided acid-free tape or archival mounting squares offer a quick, no-sew option. Apply the adhesive to the board, not the fabric, and press the fabric down working from the center outward. While convenient, adhesives can fail with humidity changes, causing the fabric to bubble or detach. Some tapes also seep through the weave over time, creating stains on the front. Reserve this method for low-value projects or pieces that will not be exposed to temperature fluctuations. Never use spray adhesive, masking tape, or glue sticks, as these contain acids that destroy fabric fibers.
Choosing the Right Frame
The frame provides structural support and defines the visual boundary of your art. Selection involves balancing aesthetics with the physical requirements of textile preservation. A frame that is too shallow will crush the stitches against the glass; one that is too large overwhelms the design.
Frame Materials
Wood frames offer warmth and rigidity, making them ideal for larger, heavier pieces. Look for kiln-dried hardwoods like maple, oak, or walnut to minimize warping. Metal frames (typically aluminum) provide a sleek, modern profile and are inherently stable. They often come in sectional kits that allow custom sizing. Composite or MDF frames are budget-friendly but can off-gas volatile organic compounds; if using these, seal the interior rabbet with archival framing tape. For a deeper look at material choices, visit our guide on selecting quality supplies.
Frame Size and Proportions
Measure your mounted piece (including any mat) to determine the inside dimensions of the frame. The frame rabbet, the inner lip that holds the glass, mat, artwork, and backing, must be deep enough to accommodate the full stack. Cross stitch has dimension; the threads sit proud of the fabric. Allow at least an eighth of an inch of clearance between the highest stitch and the glazing. If you are framing without a mat, use spacers inside the rabbet to create this air gap. Direct contact with glass traps moisture and leads to mold or sticking.
Standard Frame Sizes
Many finished designs fit standard photo frame sizes such as 5×7, 8×10, 11×14, or 16×20 inches. Using standard sizes allows you to purchase ready-made frames and pre-cut mats, significantly reducing cost. However, cross stitch dimensions rarely match these ratios perfectly. Custom framing gives you exact border control but increases the price. A common compromise is to buy a standard frame and cut a custom mat window to center your specific design dimensions. This preserves the look of a custom job at a fraction of the price.
Adding a Mat or No Mat
A mat board serves both aesthetic and preservation functions. It creates a visual breathing space between the art and the frame moulding, and it physically separates the fabric from the glazing.
Benefits
- Air Gap: The mat thickness (usually 4-ply or 8-ply) provides the necessary clearance for textured stitches.
- Acid Protection: Use only acid-free, lignin-free mat board labeled “museum quality” or “conservation grade.” Standard cardboard mats contain acid that migrates into the fabric, causing yellowing and brittleness.
- Visual Focus: A neutral mat color, cream, antique white, or soft gray, draws the eye to the stitching. Double mats with a thin reveal of a coordinating accent color can pick up a highlight shade from the floss palette.
- Hiding Imperfections: The mat window covers the raw fabric edges and any minor irregularities in the mounting.
If you choose to frame without a mat, you must use frame spacers (plastic or mat board strips) hidden inside the rabbet to hold the glass off the stitches. Clean the glazing thoroughly before assembly. For the glazing itself, standard glass is affordable but reflects light and offers no UV protection. Non-glare glass reduces reflection but can slightly soften the image. Museum glass or acrylic with 99% UV filtering provides the best clarity and protection against fading, especially for pieces displayed in bright rooms. The Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute offers detailed guidelines on textile preservation and display that reinforce these material choices.
Once assembled, seal the back of the frame with framing tape to keep dust and insects out. Attach D-rings and picture wire rated for the weight of the finished piece. Hang your work away from direct sunlight, heating vents, and damp exterior walls. With proper preparation, mounting, and framing, your cross stitch will remain a vibrant testament to your craft for decades.